Saturday, July 30, 2011

Istanbul Day 2- Ukuleles Attract Turkish Merchants

It's just a fact of the Grand Bazaar, it's strange, but more on that later.\
 
So we got up, and went out, walked across the Golden Horn and tried to walk to a museum or two. But then we gave up on that. So we tried to walk to something else. Then people got hungry and then we ate. And then people decided to go to the Grand Bazaar. Then Brianna got sick and she, Hang, and Veronica left the group.
 
So here is Gabe, Victor, Victoria, Mohamed, and me, at the Bazaar without the girls. Can you say freedom?
 
Skill 1) Talk about another place to buy the same item
So first thing I bought was a mug. We passed by one store and Gabe inquired about it, and the owner said it cost twenty five lyra. I thought out loud, "Hey, we could've bought that at Galleta Tower for 10 lyra" and then proceeded to walk away. But then he dropped his price to ten. Now I have a new mug for mom!
 
Skill 2) Negotiate for bulk
After splitting off from Victor and Victoria to give them their typical alone time, ahem, we dropped by a t-shirt store, and all three of us were fixated on this glorious Turkish flag shirt. The merchant told us it would cost fifteen lyra, certainly a good price. But then we came together and convinced him to let us have three for 30 lyra, so ten per shirt. He agreed. Now we all have shirts!
 
The same skill also worked for this bracelet Mohamed wanted. The bracelet was marked six lyra (which if I kept thinking in euros is not a bad deal), but I told him he should try for less. But I looked at the bracelet and thought I'd like one too, so we made the offer for 2 for 10. Ca-ching, cut off a lyra.
 
Oh, we saw these embroidered little coin purses. The kid was selling them for two lyra, but we negotiated a five-for-five deal. Now I have presents for (some of) the women in my life back home!
 
There is no skill 3. I'm a guy- I don't buy much, be happy I have these skills. I was thinking of buying a scarf or five for people, but I know they would be cheaper in Morocco.
 
But by the time we were done, we still had two hours to roam the Bazaar until we head back. So we roamed. We found this quieter, less crowded area, and talked to the salesmen. One inquired about the ukulele on my back (Yes, I always have my ukulele on my back) and asked me to play. So I did. As I played, everywhere I turned I saw a salesman or a shopper smiling and looking at me. One of them even feinted putting money on the ground (I think the Turkish are a bit stingy towards buskers but that's no big deal.) When I was done, I was greeted with what might as well have been a grand applause. It was heartwarming- definitely one of my favorite moments on this voyage, definitely hard to beat. After having some Turkish tea (which isn't bad) I came across this Australian carpet seller who gave me her number (no not like that) telling me I should drop by the bazaar again tomorrow because she had musician friends coming. I was flattered, I probably won't but it's tempting.
 
As we walked in the streets close to the bazaar we were stopped by a Shawarma store owner who wanted to see me play the ukulele. So I did. The adjacent store owners came out of their shops to listen. The little kids working in the store looked at me in awe. I was then greeted with applause, and then shawarma (No, not for free, but we're in Turkey, it was cheap to begin with). Mohamed had our picture taken with the owner and workers of the store. Warm moment.
 
The Turkish people are very friendly. Sure they're trying to rip me off with overpriced kashmir, but you get to know them a bit and they're alright. ... But maybe drag around a fluent Arabic speaker with you, it helps a little to communicate.
 
Maybe this city isn't so bad after all.

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